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    Feb 9, 2012 |Column| Chicago Tribune
  1. Soaring on the South Side

    When I heard that Acadia, a high-end restaurant, was opening in the South Loop, I sighed. A dining neighborhood that once looked like the second coming of Randolph Street — when Opera, Saiko, Cuatro and Room 21 were doing brisk business — has sagged badly in the last couple of years, as each of the aforementioned restaurants went dark. Only Chicago Firehouse and Gioco are left of that pioneering bunch, and Gioco only after a significant menu overhaul.
    When I heard that Acadia, a high-end restaurant, was opening in the South Loop, I sighed. A dining neighborhood that once looked like the second coming of Randolph Street — when Opera, Saiko, Cuatro and Room 21 were doing brisk business —...

    Tags: Dining and Drinking, McCormick Place, Pies and Tarts, Potatoes, Restaurants

  2. Mar 1, 2012 |Column| Chicago Tribune
  3. Celebrating the tastes of Japanese street food

    Matthias Merges worked at Charlie Trotter's for 14-odd years, and he was <i>the</i> man for most of them, serving as chef de cuisine, corporate chef and finally director of operations. &quot;He was the glue to that place," one restaurateur says, admiringly.
    Matthias Merges worked at Charlie Trotter's for 14-odd years, and he was the man for most of them, serving as chef de cuisine, corporate chef and finally director of operations. "He was the glue to that place," one restaurateur says, admiringly. That...

    Tags: Lifestyle and Leisure, Dining and Drinking, Grant Achatz, Peanuts, Mushrooms

  4. Sep 1, 2011 |Column| Chicago Tribune
  5. Country cousin far from simplistic

    When word went out that Jason Paskewitz and Ryan O'Donnell were planning Rustic House, a sequel to their successful first venture, the sophisticated Gemini Bistro, I figured the pair wanted a simpler follow-up restaurant, something that would let them expand without overexerting themselves.
    When word went out that Jason Paskewitz and Ryan O'Donnell were planning Rustic House, a sequel to their successful first venture, the sophisticated Gemini Bistro, I figured the pair wanted a simpler follow-up restaurant, something that would let them...

    Tags: Steaks, Dining and Drinking, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Bars and Clubs, Appetizers

  6. Oct 13, 2011 |Column| Chicago Tribune
  7. Make a dash for it

    Every time I figure that Logan Square is done with its boom of independent, unpretentious, quirkily personable restaurants, boom, another one pops up. If I were any other dining neighborhood in the city, I'd be developing a severe case of Logan Envy right about now.
    Every time I figure that Logan Square is done with its boom of independent, unpretentious, quirkily personable restaurants, boom, another one pops up. If I were any other dining neighborhood in the city, I'd be developing a severe case of Logan Envy right...

    Tags: Rhubarb, Anchovies, Dining and Drinking, Bars and Clubs, Restaurants

  8. Aug 25, 2011 |Column| Chicago Tribune
  9. From Paris to sizzling Bangkok

    Next, the shape-shifting restaurant by Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas (the principals at world-famous Alinea), dazzled diners with its inaugural &quot;Paris 1906" menu. For an encore, the kitchen went about as far afield as possible. To Bangkok, in fact.
    Next, the shape-shifting restaurant by Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas (the principals at world-famous Alinea), dazzled diners with its inaugural "Paris 1906" menu. For an encore, the kitchen went about as far afield as possible. To Bangkok, in fact. "We...

    Tags: Lifestyle and Leisure, Dining and Drinking, Grant Achatz, Human Interest, Foods and Beverages

  10. Jan 19, 2012 |Column| Chicago Tribune
  11. Tourondel menu has complex surprises

    Funny how a simple gesture, a little grace note, can render a dining experience memorable. For instance, I would send people to BLT American Brasserie just for the popovers.
    Funny how a simple gesture, a little grace note, can render a dining experience memorable. For instance, I would send people to BLT American Brasserie just for the popovers. Maybe it's because bread at restaurant tables these days is often missing, or...

    Tags: Dining and Drinking, Sandwiches, Souffle, Restaurants, Meatballs

  12. Mar 8, 2012 |Column| Chicago Tribune
  13. Bar Toma: Italian fare inspires dreams of summertime dining

    <a class=&quot;runtimeTopic" href="#">Tony Mantuano</a> is on a roll. A local politician who flies on Air Force One these days calls him "my favorite chef." He's in the running &mdash; again &mdash; for the James Beard Foundation's Outstanding Chef award. His executive chef at Spiaggia, Sarah Grueneberg, came thisclose to winning Top Chef a week ago. His star power is such that last year Levy Restaurants happily blew up their venerable Bistro 110 (which probably needed overhauling) to let Mantuano create Bar Toma (as in TOny MAntuano), a casual-yet-urbane food and wine bar that seems to be a physical incarnation of "Wine Bar Food," the appetizer and wine book Mantuano wrote with his wife, Cathy.
    Tony Mantuano is on a roll. A local politician who flies on Air Force One these days calls him "my favorite chef." He's in the running — again — for the James Beard Foundation's Outstanding Chef award. His executive chef at Spiaggia, Sarah...

    Tags: Lifestyle and Leisure, Dining and Drinking, Tony Mantuano, Bars and Clubs, Human Interest

  14. May 24, 2012 |Column| Chicago Tribune
  15. Doggone good spot

    Named for a departed pooch, Zak's Place is as friendly and eager to please as was its namesake.
    Named for a departed pooch, Zak's Place is as friendly and eager to please as was its namesake. Zak's Place has been flying under the radar for most of its five years in downtown Hinsdale. It did get a nice mention from Chicago magazine for its burger...

    Tags: Hamburgers, Lifestyle and Leisure, Phil Vettel, Dining and Drinking, Risotto

  16. Apr 19, 2012 |Column| Chicago Tribune
  17. Guy and the goose

    I'm not awarding four stars to Goosefoot, the splendid new restaurant by former Les Nomades chef Chris Nugent. But I suspect it's just a matter of time &#8212; and not a lot of time &#8212; before I do.
    I'm not awarding four stars to Goosefoot, the splendid new restaurant by former Les Nomades chef Chris Nugent. But I suspect it's just a matter of time — and not a lot of time — before I do. Goosefoot opened in mid-December with the plug-and-...

    Tags: Lifestyle and Leisure, Les Nomades, Cheese Corn, Phil Vettel, Dining and Drinking

  18. Mar 29, 2012 |Column| Chicago Tribune
  19. Simply glamorous

    Chicagoans have been enjoying a mini-boom of Spanish flavors of late. First there was Vera, which opened late last year in the Market District, and now Tavernita, which has been packing them in since its January opening in River North.
    Chicagoans have been enjoying a mini-boom of Spanish flavors of late. First there was Vera, which opened late last year in the Market District, and now Tavernita, which has been packing them in since its January opening in River North. And what a...

    Tags: Almonds, Lifestyle and Leisure, Dining and Drinking, Salads, Bars and Clubs

  20. Apr 5, 2012 |Column| Chicago Tribune
  21. Star potential shines at Aria

    I've been meaning to review Beverly Kim's food ever since September's Chicago Gourmet. I was mightily impressed with her contribution to the food festival: a seafood panna cotta topped with mango gelee and a pair of chilled mussels.
    I've been meaning to review Beverly Kim's food ever since September's Chicago Gourmet. I was mightily impressed with her contribution to the food festival: a seafood panna cotta topped with mango gelee and a pair of chilled mussels. Kim further boosted...

    Tags: Lifestyle and Leisure, Dining and Drinking, Top Chef (tv program), Foods and Beverages, Mussels

  22. Apr 26, 2012 |Column| Chicago Tribune
  23. Mixed messages

    Some day, I hope chef Jared Van Camp finds a suitably food-focused stage for his cooking, but that doesn't seem likely to happen any time soon.
    Some day, I hope chef Jared Van Camp finds a suitably food-focused stage for his cooking, but that doesn't seem likely to happen any time soon. Van Camp, executive chef at 2-month-old Nellcote, creates thoughtful, approachable and affordable Provence-...

    Tags: Anchovies, Lifestyle and Leisure, Phil Vettel, Dining and Drinking, The Rolling Stones (music group)

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